Medellín: A gate to the past.
Walking among the ruins and monuments of Medellin is not simple sightseeing, it doesn´t consist of completing an agenda or creating a photo album. In Medellín, the history goes to meet visitors, shy, quietly, and invites you to participate of it, not to be just a passing witness. There's something about the way this village is related to its environment, something that speaks about the past that will not return, the remains of men and women long forgotten, something that demands active participation of tourists, as if from them were expected to complete with imagination and feelings the gaps that, despite his once ago nurtured heritage, history has left in Medellin.
A few words about Medellín´s history.
Inhabited since ancient times, this ford over the Guadiana river was always occupied due to its strategic location. This makes it possible to say that this place is one of the oldest continuous settlements in the Iberian Peninsula. A complete necropolis dating from the VIth century BC testifies to the socio-economic importance developed by the city across its surroundings. Conisturgis was its name. Its population was formed by the tribe of the túrdulos, closely linked to the kingdom of Tartessos, through whose ports came to these lands a series of objects imported from the Eastern Mediterranean.
In time came the Roman legions, assimilating the developed urban and political structure of Conisturgis. By then was founded Metellinum (79 BC), name given in honor of its sponsor, the consul Quintus Caecilius Metellus, protagonist general in the Sertorian wars.
The Visigoth presence is felt through the influence radiated from Mérida, as it´s tested by epigraphic remains and the necropolis found south of the present village. During the Muslim rule, it continued the strategic importance, resulting the first fortress known in Medellin.
In 1234, the town was conquered during the victorious campaigns of Fernando III. The Master of the Order of Alcántara and the Bishop of Plasencia were prominent figures in the operations, that´s why Medellin joined the Plasencia diocese while the Order of Alcántara received the conquered territory in the near area called La Serena. Another result of these campaigns was the demarcation of the territories between the Orders of Alcántara and Santiago, separated by the Community of Borough and Royalty Land established in Medellín. In the first half of the XIVth century the lordship of the town was occupied by Juan Alfonso de Albuquerque, protected of Pedro I of Castile who, however, withdrew his confidence and destroyed the castle in 1354. In the mid-fifteenth century Medellín begins to appear as a County, being Don Rodrigo Portocarrero its first holder.
The dynastic conflict between Juana `La Beltraneja´ and Isabel `The Catholic´ had its consequences in Medellin, as the Countess by then (Beatriz de Pacheco) sided with `La Beltraneja´. So, until the XVIth century the castle was strengthened and increased its defenses, as the monarchs sought to undermine the power of the nobility that was hostile, as happened with the lineage settled in this village.
Medellín was finally remarkable in history by being the birthplace of Hernán Cortés (born about 1485), conqueror of the Aztec Empire and forerunner of the Mexican state. The sixteenth century also marked an urban expansion towards the plain, gradually abandoning the slope of the castle. At that time there was evidence of economic recovery as was shown through the construction of various religious and civic buildings.
Another reference date in the history of Medellin is March 28th, 1809. On the morning of that day a fierce battle was fought between French troops led by Marshal Victor and Spanish, commanded by General García de la Cuesta. The outcome was negative for the Spanish side, meaning one of the most severe defeats during the `Guerra de la Independencia´ (Peninsular War). As a result, the French camped for three months in the village, causing serious damage to its heritage. Just over a century later, Medellín was again a battlefront during the Civil War (1936-1939) for several months.
In time came the Roman legions, assimilating the developed urban and political structure of Conisturgis. By then was founded Metellinum (79 BC), name given in honor of its sponsor, the consul Quintus Caecilius Metellus, protagonist general in the Sertorian wars.
The Visigoth presence is felt through the influence radiated from Mérida, as it´s tested by epigraphic remains and the necropolis found south of the present village. During the Muslim rule, it continued the strategic importance, resulting the first fortress known in Medellin.
In 1234, the town was conquered during the victorious campaigns of Fernando III. The Master of the Order of Alcántara and the Bishop of Plasencia were prominent figures in the operations, that´s why Medellin joined the Plasencia diocese while the Order of Alcántara received the conquered territory in the near area called La Serena. Another result of these campaigns was the demarcation of the territories between the Orders of Alcántara and Santiago, separated by the Community of Borough and Royalty Land established in Medellín. In the first half of the XIVth century the lordship of the town was occupied by Juan Alfonso de Albuquerque, protected of Pedro I of Castile who, however, withdrew his confidence and destroyed the castle in 1354. In the mid-fifteenth century Medellín begins to appear as a County, being Don Rodrigo Portocarrero its first holder.
The dynastic conflict between Juana `La Beltraneja´ and Isabel `The Catholic´ had its consequences in Medellin, as the Countess by then (Beatriz de Pacheco) sided with `La Beltraneja´. So, until the XVIth century the castle was strengthened and increased its defenses, as the monarchs sought to undermine the power of the nobility that was hostile, as happened with the lineage settled in this village.
Medellín was finally remarkable in history by being the birthplace of Hernán Cortés (born about 1485), conqueror of the Aztec Empire and forerunner of the Mexican state. The sixteenth century also marked an urban expansion towards the plain, gradually abandoning the slope of the castle. At that time there was evidence of economic recovery as was shown through the construction of various religious and civic buildings.
Another reference date in the history of Medellin is March 28th, 1809. On the morning of that day a fierce battle was fought between French troops led by Marshal Victor and Spanish, commanded by General García de la Cuesta. The outcome was negative for the Spanish side, meaning one of the most severe defeats during the `Guerra de la Independencia´ (Peninsular War). As a result, the French camped for three months in the village, causing serious damage to its heritage. Just over a century later, Medellín was again a battlefront during the Civil War (1936-1939) for several months.
Local heritage.
Beginning.
The local artistic and historical background becomes enriched with a necropolis filled with pieces of oriental origin, that´s to say pieces imported from Greece and the Near East dating between the VIIIth century BC and the Vth BC. An Attic kylix, exhibited at the National Archaeological Museum in Madrid, represents the main object of this lot. You can find a replica of this piece in the local Interpretation centre.
Roman times.
The Romans conquered the settlement called Conisturgis, of Tartessian influence, and rebuilt in the highest point of the hill which overlooks the present village a military camp, then derived into a citadel dated in the Muslim epoch. From Roman times excels the beautifully preserved Roman theater tiers (Ist century), which have shown, once dug, several superb sculptures, buried for centuries and now exhibited in the Archaeological Museum of Badajoz. The Interpretation center, located just a few meters from the theater scene, show various examples of timbers, bases and capitals, yet beautifully covered with stucco, which provide some indication about the monumentality that the front stage had. Furthermore, in the basement of that Interpretation center you can see some sections of the walls that served as foundation to the pagan temple beneath the present Santiago church.
·Visitable·
Middle Ages - Visigoths.
The Visigoth times include the great grave goods found in `El Turuñuelo´ (a nearby country property) whose top element is represented by a gold medellion which reads, in Greek, a prayer invoking the protection of the Virgin Mary. The rest of the pieces, along with that, are exhibited in the National Archaeological Museum in Madrid, but it is possible to examine a series of pictures showing the outfit in a room situated in the cellar of the main tower in the castle.
Middle Ages - Islamic occupation.
The Muslim invasion left its imprint in the hilltop castle, keeping active the old Roman location. Today a few remnants survive from that period: isolated stretches of wall mud, remains of the walls of the ancient citadel lying under the battlements of the current fortification and a cistern of two naves covered with ocher paint (XIIth century)
Middle Ages - Castle.
Most representative monument of Medellín (XIVth century), its elongated silhouette dominates over the lands that one day formed the county which was based on it. It is now presented as a large space divided into two large courtyards, separated by a robust wall linking the two main towers of the enclosure. The inside of them is strongly evocative: spiral staircases, sturdy fireplaces and stone seats transport us to a time when noble life gave up comfort to martial tasks. The castle houses the remains of what was the first parish of the place (Santa María del Castillo) which, as a crypt, keeps a tank perhaps from the Muslim period. Furthermore, the ancient walls protect a giant pool, from the same times, and the small but elegant Spanish-Moorish cistern aforementioned. The fort has also a little museum where you can visit replicas of warlike supplies and stores used in the conquest of America plus an exhibition of pictures about the findings in the nearby Tartessian and Visigoth necropolis.
·Visitable·
Middle Ages/Renaissance - Religious monuments.
Medellín has three churches. The two oldest combine late Romanesque traces with Gothic and Baroque interesting details. The newest one has an `herreriano´ invoice. Santiago and San Martín are the names of the first two temples. Its charm lies not only on their forms but also on its location. Witnesses of a time when the town was settled in the hillside, now both churches stand solitary, stranded in the stillness of the quiet mountain. Furthermore, the fact that they do not say mass any longer enhances the romantic feeling of isolation.
Early modern period - Bridge of the `Austrias´.
This magnificent work of twenty spans and four hundred meters long is the third bridge known by this ford. The first of them, from Roman times, was destroyed by a flood before 1525. A second, from the Renaissance period, came to be erected in 1575, but was devastated by a new flood of the Guadiana in 1603. The bridge which is now contemplated dates from 1630, as reported by an interesting shrine in the middle of its course. However, it is still possible to distinguish the remains, on both banks, of both bridges that preceded it.
Middle Ages/Early modern period - Other monuments.
Lower excellent, Medellin also offers heritage relics that once shone and currently have almost disappeared. However, thanks to their weak echo, perhaps these humble remains are of equal interest to those tourists with lively imagination.
Roman walls.
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Arab walls.
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Roman/Arab/Christian walls.
3rd. walled enclosure, reinforcement and enlargement of the previous Roman and Arab walls - XIVth century - Mill next to the
Guadiana river - XVIIth century - |
Contemporary history.
Heart and symbol of the modern Medellín, the spacious `Plaza de Hernán Cortés´ houses the town hall, of Neoclassical style, and the superb statue of the conqueror of the Aztec Empire. You should not miss this place and reflect before the bronze effigy of the most illustrious son of Medellín the colossal feat of those pioneers who tended the first bridge between the Old and the New World.
Finally, it is worth to walk towards the central Colombia Street and admire several mansions of the late XIXth century, which, aligned, lead to the `Plaza de España´, where there is a mansion dating from the XVIIth century, traditional site of the town hall until the 1950s.
Finally, it is worth to walk towards the central Colombia Street and admire several mansions of the late XIXth century, which, aligned, lead to the `Plaza de España´, where there is a mansion dating from the XVIIth century, traditional site of the town hall until the 1950s.
Text: Ismael Martínez Moreno.